The pairing logic, in depth
Salmon breaks the old “white wine with fish” rule, and understanding why makes you a better pairer everywhere. Most white fish is lean and delicate, which is why it wants a light white. Salmon is oily and dense - closer in texture to a light meat than to flaky cod. That richness gives it the structure to stand up to a red, provided the red is light-bodied and low in tannin. A chilled Pinot Noir with roasted salmon is one of the great “surprise” pairings precisely because the fish is meaty enough to carry it.
Tannin is the one thing to fear. The tannins in a big red react badly with the oils in fish - the combination produces a distinctly metallic, almost fishy aftertaste that ruins both. That's why Cabernet and salmon is a mistake, while Pinot Noir (naturally low-tannin) and salmon is a classic. Whatever color you choose, the wine should be defined by acidity, not grip.
Preparation decides white-versus-red. Anything with char, smoke, or earthy accompaniments (mushrooms, lentils, a cedar plank) leans red - Pinot Noir's forest-floor character mirrors them. Anything lean, citrusy, or poached leans white - a mineral Chablis or a herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc echoes the lemon and herbs. Sweet-savory glazes (teriyaki, miso, maple) introduce sugar, which a bone-dry wine reads as sourness; an off-dry Riesling or a fruity rosé absorbs it gracefully.
Serve whites cold (45-50°F) and - importantly - serve the Pinot Noir lightly chilled too, around 55°F, 15 minutes in the fridge. A cool red feels fresher against oily fish and keeps the fruit lively. Smoked salmon is its own case: the smoke and salt are so intense that only sparkling wine's combination of high acid and scrubbing bubbles truly resets the palate, which is why bubbles-and-lox is a brunch institution.